I've always wondered why waves crash when they hit the shore. It's such a powerful and dramatic phenomenon, but what causes it? Is it the force of the water, the shape of the wave, or something else entirely?
6 answers
benjamin_cole_nurse
Sat Oct 19 2024
The forward lean of the wave crest reaches a point where it becomes unstable and eventually collapses. This collapse is known as breaking, and it occurs when the wave crest topples over and crashes onto the shoreline.
Giuseppe
Sat Oct 19 2024
Waves, as they approach the shoreline, undergo a transformation due to the interaction with the sea bottom.
Nicola
Sat Oct 19 2024
The base of the wave encounters resistance from the seabed, causing it to slow down significantly. This contrasts with the upper part of the wave, which continues to move forward at a faster pace.
WhisperEcho
Sat Oct 19 2024
As a result of this speed difference, the wave crest, or the highest point of the wave, begins to tilt forward. This tilting increases gradually as the wave progresses closer to the shore.
Tommaso
Fri Oct 18 2024
The breaking of waves is a common occurrence along beaches and coastlines. It creates a unique and often picturesque landscape, with foam and spray flying into the air.